Thursday, July 3, 2025

The Women Speed Riders of Chamonix

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Chamonix is home to a fearless bunch of women who take to the sky weekly on their speed wings, living life on the edge. | Photo: Cyrilde Pic

Speed riding is essentially skiing but with wings. You clip into your skis, strap on a small glider, and take off. The glider or 'wing,' as it is referred, lifts, the skis carve, and gravity does the rest. It’s fast. It’s light. And when done right, it looks like flight sculpted in real time; the ability to glide only inches or also hundreds of feet above snow, cutting tight turns, touching down and lifting again—all at breakneck speed.

Born in France in the early 2000s, speed riding stemmed from speed flying, which exploded as a fringe experiment, turning into one of the most exhilarating mountain sports on the planet. The main difference? Speed riding is on snow with skis while speed flying is only flying. Both demand precision, speed, and a lot of nerve. They both took root deeply in the Chamonix valley—where the terrain is some of the most serious the world has to offer. The line between life and death runs thin here, and those who call these mountains their home constantly dance along that line.

Yet beneath the sport’s rugged image lies a quieter legacy—one carved by the women who’ve been flying these peaks for decades

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Speed riding is an adrenaline-fueled mix of speed flying and extreme skiing. | Photo: Cyrilde Pic

Cyrilde Pic is a Chamonix local and a speed riding guide. She’s been flying since before social media existed, before most people knew what speed riding even was. “There was a lot of speed riding with women here before the social media,” she says with a French accent. “It’s just an old story—older than Instagram.”

Pic grew up between Chamonix and Brittany, skiing and sailing. Her introduction to wind sports like speed flying actually started first with windsurfing. Later, a paragliding tandem flight for her 20th birthday changed everything. She dropped out of university to become a paragliding instructor. “When speed riding showed up in the mid-2000s…I was a skier and a sailor and a paraglider. It was love at first sight. For me, it was windsurfing on snow.”

She started teaching speed riding in 2009, and by 2010, she won the French championship at 40 years old. “It’s not the Olympics,” she says. "We were 12 girls. But for me, it was an achievement. I couldn’t make what I wanted to do in my windsurfing career because of the money. So I was really happy to win this title.”

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Speed riders take flight at the Women of Speed Flying event at Val d’Isère in the French Alps in February 2025. | Photo: Tobi Mazoyer

From the start, women weren’t just on the sidelines in Chamonix—they were actively shaping the speed riding scene. Pic, one of the sport’s early figures, remembers it clearly. “It’s always been a girl story, riding in the valley,” she says. Some of her friends moved on over the years, but Pic stayed with it—teaching, riding, competing—driven purely by love for the sport. Women weren’t just participating; they were building the foundation.

Pic's journey hasn’t been smooth. In 2012, an avalanche near the Monte Bianco Skyway in Italy nearly ended her career. She was out in the mountains shooting photos of skiing and speed riding with a friend when she got caught. “By chance, I didn’t take the canopy out yet,” she says. “I tumbled for 400 meters and broke all my right side. It’s been a long way back.” But the injury gave her perspective. “It’s probably one of the most interesting journeys in my life. You discover that you can do it. I find joy now in simpler things.”

Today, she still rides—guiding clients, exploring lines, and sharing knowledge with younger pilots. “I’ve been teaching speed riding for a long time and paragliding more than 30 years. If I can share that with other women and the kids who need a bit of experience, I’m super happy.”

Cyrilde Pic is a legend of the Chamonix speed flying and speed riding community. | Photo: Cyrilde Pic

One of those younger pilots is Ioana Hanganu, a Romanian rider who moved to Chamonix in December 2020 and became actively involved in the speed riding community. She flies constantly; before work, after work, or pretty much whenever the weather allows. She flies with other women. With men. Or with whoever shares the same obsession for speed, flow, and freedom. For Hanganu, it’s not just about logging flights—it’s about building a community in the sky. One where skill matters more than ego, and where every shared lap becomes part of something bigger.

“There are people that are super good at flying but not very good on skis,” she says. “You need both. It’s not like you can do this once every two weeks. You have to keep up. It’s a year-round thing. You need hours.”

Hanganu started with paragliding, logging in hours of flight time before progressing to speed flying and then ultimately speed riding. But that all came to a halt when, on a paragliding trip in India with some friends in 2024, she crashed and broke her spine trying to top-land at the end of a long day of flying. Hanganu couldn't land where she initially planned and made an error on the descent, crashing and suffering a compression fracture in her L2 vertebrae and spinal chord compression, which left her needing an intense rescue that took hours, followed by spinal surgery and months of rehabilitation just to return to her normal physical ability.

She learned a lot from the accident, she says. Now, she increases the amount of studying she does for landings and better listens to her body when she's tired, often backing off from flights when she's not feeling great about them."I'm more careful now with being mental there, taking less risk, and trusting myself more than listening to other people—and just feeling it 100% when I go for it," Hanganu says.

Another friend of Pic and Hanganu is Johanna Stalnacke, a Chamonix mountain guide whose first solo flight paragliding ended in a crash. “There was a bit of a side wind,” she says. “I made a mistake, raised the wrong brake in the stress, and I did a 180 right back into the landing field. But the only thing I could think about was getting back up. Otherwise, I’d be scared.”

It was Pic who helped Stalnacke get her confidence back. “She told me, I’ll guide you on the radio. We’ll do it gradually, and it’ll be a good experience again,” Stalnacke said. “That was the reason I started [paragliding] again.”

Pic's mentorship role with pupils like Hanganu and Stalnacke is an important ingredient to the sense of community that is shared amongst flyers in Chamonix. That community blossoms with events that promote and create space specifically for women to gather and fly together. “There’s this event, it's called the Women of Speed Flying,” Hanganu says. “It’s not a competition, more like a meet-up. Girls from all over the world come. It’s way more accessible in Val d’Isère, and you can do a lot of laps."

The Women of Speed Flying event has become a yearly tradition in nearby Val d'Isere, two and a half hours from Chamonix. Women come to fly and participate in a speed riding-oriented game where entrants stack points by completing a 'list' of various tasks and activities. It's a playful, friendly competition centered around speed riding that gets women from everywhere to meet up, fly, and then après at one of the on-mountain bars with live music afterwards. "It's really fun," Hanganu says.

Pic didn’t get to attend this year, but she believes in the mission. “I think it’s a good idea to push and motivate the girls,” she says. “It’s a way to show that we have our place in the community. I personally love mixed events too, but I think this is a great initiative.”

Still, the roots of this story go beyond new gatherings and hashtags. For Pic, supporting women in the sport was never separate from supporting the sport itself. “I tried to push the activity here in Chamonix—not especially with the girls, but with the youngsters, with everybody,” she says. “To give a chance to this activity and make people understand it could be practiced in many ways.”

That philosophy runs through how she teaches. “You have to be a good skier. Absolutely. No discussion,” Pic says. “You have to be able to ski everything you want to speed ride. And you have to accept not to go too fast. A lot of accidents happen because people push too fast into strong places, or downsize their wing too early. Because it looks good on social media.”

She pauses. “Extreme is not the goal. It’s just one of the ways to practice.”

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More and more women like Hanganu and Stalnacke are getting into speed riding. | Photo: Tobi Mazoyer

Chamonix is both a home base and a testing ground. The community is tight-knit but diverse, with riders bringing a wide range of styles—from freestyle-heavy lines to high-mountain technical descents. Nor is it just locals; people come from all over the planet, creating a mix of cultures, perspectives, and approaches. That blend is part of what keeps the scene dynamic—and what makes it such a compelling place to ride, according to Pic.

Hanganu agrees—but notes that it’s not always easy to break in. “It’s kind of a clicky community here,” she says. “You have to trust your partners and for them to trust you. But with speed, even if you don’t fly the same line, you’re still in the gondola together. You’re still on the same lap. It creates a big sense of community. It’s why I keep doing this.”

Speed riding offers more excitement than paragliding but also more risk. | Photo: sport-actus.fr

That openness is something Pic has always felt, even as one of the few women instructors. “I’ve never felt anything bad about being a woman in this sport,” she says. “It has always been an advantage. If you take it the right way, men are super nice and ready to help. You just have to behave like a human, not like a woman. There are speed riders—that’s it. Whatever the gender.”

The path to becoming an instructor in France is not easy. You need both your paragliding license and your ski instructor license—both hard to get. That’s part of why so few are qualified. “It’s super hard to get in France,” Hanganu says. “There’s only a few that are doing it professionally, and even fewer women.”

Still, the presence of women in speed riding—both in the air and behind the scenes—has always been strong, at least in Chamonix. “It’s the same with mountain guides,” Pic says. “There are few women guides overall, but most of them are in Chamonix. Maybe it’s the role models. The climbers, the skiers, the people we grew up seeing. It makes you believe you can do it too.”

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In order to start speed riding you first have to be a good skier. | Photo: valfrejus.com

For both Pic and Hanganu, longevity in the sport comes from knowing your limits and respecting the mountain. “You have to be realistic about your level,” Pic says. “You have to be able to change places often. If you always ride the same spot, you don’t progress. And you can’t go too fast, especially with conditions or wing size. I’ve seen people die because they didn’t have the level. You need to know the air mass, the techniques, have full control.”

Pic remembers the accident in 2012. She remembers tumbling for 400 meters and the time in the hospital—all the surgeries and all the painful time spent convalescing and reflecting on her life. But she doesn’t have any remorse. “I wouldn’t change a single thing," she says. "I’ve made my life in the air, and I’ll keep doing that. I have absolutely no regrets.”

Speed riding is not a sport for those chasing likes on Instagram, according to Pic. It’s for people who chase feeling. Who are okay with going slow to go far. Who know the mountain and their wing as well as themselves. “I think the most important thing is that pleasure must always be the engine,” Pic says. “You go for the old friend—the joy, the ride, the moment."

In Chamonix, more and more speed riders are women. They are not waiting to be invited in. Like valkyries, they are flying fast, high, and with grace on a sort of battlefield, except one where everyone is on the same side. All speed riders possess a deep desire to enjoy life to the fullest. This is what brought them to the sky in the first place; not to conquer it but to dance with it.

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Cyrilde Pic takes flight on her wing, speed riding in the French Alps. | Photo: Cyrilde Pic


What FOMO Actually Does to Your Brain

The "Fear of Missing Out" affects brain chemistry. | Photo: SnowBrains

I'm now two weeks into recovering from an ankle injury and I've caught myself doing something counterproductive: scrolling through Instagram incessantly. While I'm currently mastering the delicate art of navigating stairs on crutches, my feed is full of friends skiing powder lines, standing on sunlit summits, and linking perfect turns. Not only am I  missing out—I'm hyper-aware of what I'm currently missing.

This reaction is known as FOMO: the Fear of Missing Out. It’s more than just a passing feeling of envy. FOMO is a psychological and neurological response that kicks in when we perceive others having rewarding experiences without us. And it has some very real effects on how our brains process social and emotional information.

How the Brain Creates FOMO

Fear of Missing Out isn’t just emotional—it’s structural. Neuroimaging research shows that people who score high on FOMO tend to have reduced cortical thickness in a brain region called the precuneus. This part of the brain, nestled within the Default Mode Network (DMN), is heavily involved in memory, self-reflection, and social cognition. It’s what helps us imagine scenes, reflect on our relationships, and picture what others might be doing.

When you’re watching your friends get face shots in deep pow while you’re laid up with an injury or stuck at work, your brain’s DMN starts firing. You don’t just see the scene—you mentally simulate being there. You imagine what it feels like, sounds like, even smells like. And then you compare that imagined experience to your current reality: being stuck inside.

FOMO also overlaps with the brain’s reward system. Normally, dopamine—a neurotransmitter associated with pleasure and motivation—helps reinforce rewarding behavior. But it also works through something called reward prediction. If you expect something good to happen and it doesn’t, dopamine levels crash. That’s called a negative prediction error.

In the context of FOMO, when you see others having an experience you want, your brain calculates that you’re missing out on a reward. The result? A mix of frustration, craving, and emotional discomfort. This cycle can make you keep checking your phone or social media feed, even when you know it won’t make you feel better.

Why Social Media Makes It Worse

Social media platforms are designed to hook attention and deliver quick dopamine hits. Fast-scrolling apps like TikTok and Instagram amplify this by showing bite-sized content that’s emotionally engaging. This pattern conditions the brain to seek out constant updates—and to feel anxiety when those updates seem better than our current situation. The term “TikTok brain” has been coined to describe this hyper-stimulation of neural reward pathways. For injured skiers, this can be especially brutal—we’re not just missing out, we’re being shown exactly what we’re missing in real time.

So if you’re injured or sidelined, and you keep watching ski content, your brain isn’t just reacting—it’s being trained to keep reacting. It’s easy to fall into a loop of checking, comparing, and feeling left out. Not everyone experiences FOMO the same way, either. Research shows that people with stronger emotional regulation and better connectivity between the brain’s control centers and the DMN are better equipped to manage it. Those with less emotional regulation tend to be more vulnerable.

There are gender differences, too. A Spanish study found that women tend to score higher on social media addiction and “phone obsession,” often tied to emotional connection, while men scored higher on internet gaming-related behaviors. These findings suggest gendered differences in how social stimuli are processed and what kinds of digital FOMO we’re more prone to.

Social media has a way of turning every powder day you miss into a full-blown mental highlight reel. | Photo: SnowBrains

Injury and Isolation Can Intensify It

For skiers, missing a season or even just a few ripping storm cycles can feel like missing a part of your identity.Skiing isn’t just an activity—it’s often a form of community, self-expression, and mental health maintenance. Being cut off from that doesn’t just hurt physically. It changes your sense of connection and belonging. That isolation makes the social comparison loop of FOMO even more potent. The brain, looking for connection and stimulation, turns to digital sources. But those sources can backfire, triggering even more comparison and dissatisfaction.

How to Manage the Spiral

Understanding the brain science behind FOMO can help reduce its power. Here are a few strategies supported by research:

- Mindfulness meditation: Helps calm the Default Mode Network and reduce obsessive thoughts.
- Cognitive Behavioral Therapy (CBT) techniques: Challenge distorted thinking patterns that fuel social comparison.
- Digital boundaries: Take structured breaks from social media to break the dopamine-checking cycle.
- Real-world interaction: Talking to friends in person or journaling your thoughts can ground your perspective.

The Bigger Picture

FOMO isn’t a personal failing—it’s a byproduct of how our brains evolved interacting with modern technology, which is currently ongoing. Our neural wiring, designed for in-person social groups, is being constantly triggered by digital platforms that weren’t built with mental health in mind. The neuroscience of FOMO also raises ethical concerns for tech design. If digital platforms are designed to tap into the brain’s reward system and capitalize on our fear of missing out, there's a real argument for making those systems more responsible. Researchers suggest that dopamine-triggering features, such as endless scrolls or social comparison cues, should be implemented by social media companies with caution—especially for users more prone to compulsive behavior.

Understanding the neurological roots of FOMO won’t make it disappear, but it can help us navigate it. When you find yourself feeling left out or anxious about what you’re missing, it helps to pause. Recognize the neural systems at play. You’re not weak. You’re human. And sometimes, the best move for your mental health isn’t catching up on everyone else’s adventures—it’s stepping away for a bit and focusing on your own. Even if sometimes, like in my case, that means just healing, resting, and waiting for next season.

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Scroll. Binge. Repeat. The FOMO loop always starts with one innocent tap. POV: Miles Clark at Palisades Tahoe, CA, on an epic powder day in March 2025. |  Photo: SnowBrains


Monoman: The Tragic Last Run of a Chamonix Icon

Patrick Joly, better known as "Monoman" by the Chamonix community, was known for his eccentric character and hard-charging ski style, often seen at the Monte Bianco Skyway in nearby Italy with antennas on his head and a cape on his back. | Photo: Papy Millet

The Monte Bianco Skyway is an engineering marvel. The rotating cable car, offering 360-degree panoramic views as it soars from the quaint Italian ski village of Courmayeur, accesses the high glaciers of the Mont Blanc Massif at over 3,400 meters (11,300 feet), just on the other side of the tunnel running from Chamonix. It gives direct access to some of the most dangerous ski terrain in the world. It's a classy, awe-inspiring ride into the alpine wilderness surrounding Western Europe's highest peak. For Patrick Joly—better known as "Monoman" by the Chamonix and Courmayeur communities—it was a gateway to the place where he felt most alive.

On February 14, Monoman was skiing alone beneath the Colle del Gigante when an avalanche roared down the Serac Line, catching him from behind. Buried under more than a meter of snow, he remained trapped for 45 minutes before rescue teams arrived. He was pulled from the debris, barely clinging to life, and airlifted to Parini Hospital in Aosta. Two days later, he succumbed to his injuries.

He was 65.

The Legend of Monoman

Monoman was no ordinary skier. A retired traveling salesman from Paris, he had moved to Chamonix 12 years ago and thrown himself into a life of full-throttle skiing. His love for monoskiing—a style that once flourished in the 1980s but had since faded—became his calling card, but it was his unmistakable appearance that truly set him apart. With a cape billowing behind him as he carved down the slopes, he looked like a skiing superhero, the fabric whipping in the wind as if fueling his speed and flair. Affixed to his helmet was a pair of antennas—quirky, inexplicable, yet entirely fitting for a man who seemed to exist on his own wavelength, tuned into a frequency of pure joy and adrenaline. Whether they were for style, superstition, or a silent joke, no one knew for sure, but together, the cape and antennas became as much a part of his legend as his relentless pursuit of the next run.

“He was out there, skiing all the time, making the most of it,” Ross Hewitt said, a longtime Chamonix guide. It wasn’t just that he skied every day—it was how he skied. In 2019, Monoman set the record for most runs completed in a single day on the Monte Bianco Skyway: 18 laps, with each run at least 1,200 meters (4,000 feet) long. A staggering feat, considering the punishing terrain and the time it takes to cycle back up.

“He did it in a year when the exit was rocky, slow,” Hewitt recalled. “But Monoman just stayed there all day long, when everyone else said, ‘It’s getting hot. Time to go home.’”

Monoman was a character, eccentric but deeply respected in Chamonix. If the lift was delayed or the weather turned bad, he’d find a piano and start playing. He was a professional musician, often performing in bars and hotels for après-ski. Sometimes he would even play in the Monte Bianco Skyway station between runs, fingers dancing across the keys while his monoski leaned against the wall beside him, snow trickling onto the mid-station's tile floors. 

“He loved music, loved life,” Papy Millet said, another long-time Skyway local and friend of the late Chamonix freeride hero Tof Henry, as well as one of Monoman’s closest ski partners. “He was always enjoying himself.”

The Avalanche

February 14 had started like any other day. Monoman and Millet were skiing together in the morning, lapping Skyway as they had for years. But by midday, the sun was baking the slopes. Millet called it—he knew better than to keep skiing once the snow softened. But Monoman, as always, stayed out.

“He loved skiing alone,” Millet said.

The avalanche struck around 2:30 p.m. from above the Serac Line, a notorious but beloved freeride route beneath Colle del Gigante. It was big—likely a D3 on the American avalanche scale—powerful enough to bury a car, to snap trees. It was likely triggered naturally as a result of wind-transported snow from heavy winds that were blowing at over 100 kilometers that day, loading the avalanche-prone slope until it reached its breaking point. People on the tramcar overhead saw it unfold. Someone filmed it. The footage is gut-wrenching: a tidal wave of white surging down the face, swallowing Monoman before he could react.

He was buried for 45 minutes.

Millet and Monoman on the Monte Bianco Skyway cable car. | Photo: Papy Millet

Most avalanche victims don’t survive past 15.

Rescue teams arrived by helicopter. His avalanche transceiver was working. They dug him out, unconscious but with a pulse. He was flown to the hospital in Aosta, where doctors fought to save him. But the damage was too severe.

On the morning of February 16, Monoman was gone.

“The Game”

Monoman had always embraced risk. Chamonix is a place where skiers speak of avalanches not as rare disasters, but as an ever-present reality. Here, the mountains don’t forgive mistakes. Monoman knew this.

“He played the game,” Millet said.

The “game” was an unspoken challenge among the hard-charging locals: how far could you push, how close could you dance to the edge before the mountains decided otherwise?

“I rescued Monoman many times over the years,” Millet admitted. “From crevasses, from glaciers, from bad situations.” But Monoman never slowed down. He was 65, still skiing faster than most men half his age. He didn’t back off when conditions deteriorated. He didn’t call it a day when the heat made the slopes unstable. And on that February afternoon, when even his longtime partner had decided it was too dangerous, he dropped in one more time.

Skiing in Chamonix is a lifelong test of balance—not just on the snow, but between ambition and restraint, passion and pragmatism. The mountains here demand skill, but more than that, they require humility. Yes, many have lost their lives pushing too hard, ignoring warning signs, or simply falling victim to the mountain’s unpredictable nature. But survival isn’t just luck; it’s about knowing when to go and when to walk away. Hewitt, who has been skiing here for nearly 30 years, has seen both sides of that equation. He’s watched friends disappear, but he’s also managed to keep himself in the game, season after season. Experience teaches patience, and patience keeps you alive. “Every five years, something like this happens,” Hewitt said. “It’s the reality of the place. It’s really good skiing. But also, when it goes wrong—it goes wrong.”

Monoman lived for skiing and he pushed its limits—sometimes past where others would. He was a talented man who knew the risks and understood the mountains. He, like many other locals, was well aware that Chamonix is a place where the line between adventure and consequence is razor-thin. Yet for those who make it their home, that’s part of the pull. 

One Last Song

I met Patrick Joly—Monoman—for the first time this season at the Skyway. He immediately stuck out to me—a cool-headed Frenchman with long flowing gray hair skiing in sunglasses with antennas on his helmet—monoski and all. I immediately knew he was somebody. The last time I saw Monoman, however, he wasn’t skiing—he was playing the piano, singing and smiling big, completely lost in the music. I didn't even know that he played the piano. It really brightened my day. I wouldn't see him again. The next day was the avalanche. 

I still see him there—fingers sliding across the keys, carefree as ever. Just like when I witnessed him on the mountain, cape trailing behind him, carving through the snow. He was impossible to miss and even harder to forget. Monoman skied harder and longer than most, driven by something beyond reason, beyond caution. Sure, I didn’t know him that well—but I saw him. And those who did know him will remember not just how he skied, but how he lived—fully, and without hesitation. The Chamonix community grieves the loss of an iconic character, yet I'm also quite sure that those who loved and cared for him will also always remember him with a little bit of a smile. 

The mountain may have taken Monoman but it does not keep him. He is in the stories, in the wind at the summit, and in the tracks that vanish with the next snowfall under the Skyway's cables. 

Monoman in his element, charging down the slopes of the Skyway. | Photo: Papy Millet


Saturday, April 5, 2025

La Sapinière: Convalescing in Style at the Chamonix Chalet Hotel with the Best View of Mont Blanc in Town

La Sapinière's hotel rooms each have an immaculate video of Mont Blanc—Europe's tallest peak. | Photo: La Sapinière 

An image of a beautiful young blonde woman with big breasts wearing nothing but bright-red ski boots and clinging to the side of a snowy cliffside flashed across the projector screen in the panoramic breakfast hall of the La Sapinière Hotel, just up the grassy hill from downtown Chamonix. "There's nothing wrong with this!" Gary Bigham blurted to the audience of the vintage photograph slideshow. "It's art!"
I was there along with approximately 30 other young to aging ski bums to take part in a “movie night” that La Sapinière intermittently hosts where locals showcase their work and get feedback from the audience on their work. This time, it was a retro photo reel from Bigham, a pioneering ski filmmaker and photographer who made a name for himself capturing the rowdy, free-livin’ attitude of the Alpine ski-bum scene from the 1970s through the ’90s. He has a reputation for being eccentric, fun, and quite loveable. Shooting mostly around Chamonix and Verbier, Bigham’s films and photos portray the lighthearted spirit of early freestyle skiing with a sense of do-it-yourself-grit and mischievous charm. He narrated the slideshow, giving us context for each vintage photograph—several of them quite ridiculous—as he sipped on a glass of red wine. And then another. The presentation was not what I expected but it was highly entertaining. I was smiling the entire time, and, when I looked around, seemingly everyone else was, too.  

The breakfast hall at La Sapinière offers panoramic views of Chamonix. | Photo: La Sapinière

Patrick and Jeannie Cachat, La Sapinière's current owners, have been friends with Bigham since the 1970s when he moved there in his twenties. I met them shortly after coming through La Sapinière's rustic doors, crutching into one of Chamonix's most storied hotels with a broken ankle. I couldn't ski back home in nearby Courmayeur, so why not take a weekend trip to France? Turns out, it was the perfect place to convalesce: lovely spring weather with a sun-drenched afternoon and my ankle propped up on a veranda chair as I sat outside in a T-shirt watching Mont Blanc glow in the distance, munching on a buttery croissant. There are few views of the peak like the one from La Sapinière: the chalet hotel faces an open stretch of Savoy meadows with no obstruction—just a clean, majestic line to the summit of Western Europe’s highest mountain.

But the view is only part of it. La Sapinière is one of the last family-owned hotels in Chamonix. The Cachat family opened it in 1935, and it’s been in their hands ever since. Patrick Cachat, a descendant of famed mountain guide Jean-Michel “le Géant” Cachat, runs the hotel with his wife Jeannie, an American who moved to Chamonix years ago after they met. Together, they raised their blue-eyed daughter Ellika—who, after completing a Ph.D. program in Norway but since returning home, now helps run the hotel—and a son, in one of Europe's most scenic valleys home to some of its most intimidating peaks.  

I'd argue that La Sapinière has the best view of any hotel in downtown Chamonix. | Photo: Fabian Bodet

The Cachats have deep roots in the valley—literally written into the land. Several peaks in the Chamonix area are named after members of the Cachat lineage. Their history is one of guides, mountaineers, and innkeepers, woven into the development of the village itself. On Sunday, with the warm rays of the high-mountain sun oozing in through the hotel's broad windows, Ellika and I sat down with a weathered box filled with generations of family artifacts: old photographs of glaciers and summits, 19th-century bills of sale, handwritten letters, even doctor’s notes. The collection has been passed down through the family and lives at the hotel—an informal archive of life in the French Alps.
 
It’s this continuity, this lived-in sense of place, that gives La Sapinière its charm. While the hotel holds a prime location—just a few minutes walk from the town center and across from beginner ski slopes—it feels miles away from the corporate sameness that defines many modern ski lodges. It’s got a relaxed, welcoming vibe—one that’s genuinely skier-centric. One evening as we returned from a fine meal at Atmosphère, a restaurant perched above the river in downtown, we passed a group of tipsy Brits stumbling through the street. “They are speaking in beer,” Patrick said with a grin. 

Convalescing, French style. | Photo: SnowBrains
 
Inside the hotel, the energy is warm and laid-back; there's this certain lightness that the French mountaineers of Chamonix carry themselves with—like they don't take things so seriously because they live in a place where death is frequently in their faces. This is likely due to the dangerous nature of the activities they partake in daily. As a result, they seemingly don't sweat the small stuff as much. It's this laissez-faire attitude that gives these French their unmistakable charm, which is easily reflected inside La Sapinière's time-honored walls. And there's just something elegant about that. "We're listed as a 3-star hotel. But it’s more like a 4-star hotel for the price of 3-star," as Jeannie Cachat puts it, in her Bostonian accent that lingers with a soft air of French after-tones. The hotel's rooms all face the Mont Blanc massif with pretty, private balconies that catch the morning sun. The sauna and outdoor hot tub are just enough luxury to feel indulgent after a long day on the slopes—or, in my case, a long day on crutches.

Breakfast at La Sapinière is served in a panoramic room with 180-degree views of the mountains (the same room where Bigham held his impish slideshow that everyone loved) and fresh bread from Maison Bourdillat, a bakery just down the street. In the evenings, guests drift into the lounge for a glass of wine or live music from any one of Chamonix's locals, who you think just ski or do other crazy mountain stuff before learning that they are actually talented musicians on the side. On the hotel's terrace, skiers pull off boots and soak in the view with a spritz or a beer, winding down from a day well-spent on the steeps. It's quite easy to feel fancy in Chamonix even if, as a dirty ski bum, you are inherently not.
Spring in Chamonix ushers in perfect weather to sit outside and enjoy the Good Life. | Photo: Fabian Bodet
 
The nearby access to the Brévent-Flégère ski area is another reason guests keep coming back to the family-owned hotel. For those headed elsewhere in the valley, the ski bus stops just outside La Sapinière's patio that faces Mont Blanc. Year-round, paragliders land in the field out front, and trailheads for hiking and biking are just a few minutes away. This, on top of the hotel's cozy feel, gives it the sense that it has a little bit of something for everyone who walks in through its historic doors.

To me, La Sapinière feels like the people running the place care more about you than your check-in time. They’ll hand you your room key, sure—but they’ll also explain to you their favorite trails,  make a call to a guide they trust, or send you to a restaurant that still slices its cheese by hand. Not because it’s a perk, but because that’s what you do when someone shows up in your home asking what’s good.

My room at La Sapinière had a stellar view of the Mont Blanc Massif. | Photo: SnowBrains
The Cachat family's involvement in Chamonix dates back to the 18th century. | Photo: SnowBrains

The staff of this place is a family—literally. And they treat guests more like neighbors than bookings. You feel it in the way Patrick lingers to chat about his proud Chamonix heritage, in the way Jeannie tells you stories about watching icons like Glenn Plake and Gary Bigham ski in the ‘80s, and in the way Ellika explains where the croissants came from. These folks know the mountains. They’ve lived them. Raised their kids in their shadow. They've known passionate love and tragic loss under these lofty peaks that are equally as beautiful as they are damned. All the while, the hotel's walls stand firmly in place—planted in the ground as deeply as the Cachat family's roots, going back to some of Chamonix's very first mountaineers who bravely danced with giants like Mont Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi.

Yet, in a town that’s fast becoming polished and pricey, La Sapinière holds true; there’s no fake rustic charm here—no designer flannel cushions for sale in the lobby. Just timeworn floorboards, a few creaks in the stairs, and a kind of lived-in ease that feels earned. It’s a place where a slideshow from an eccentric Chamonix freeskiing legend can follow a morning of croissants and glacier views, where the old and the new drink from the same bottle of wine and no one’s in a hurry to finish their glass.

It’s easy to be seduced by Chamonix—the sharp peaks, the high-speed lifts, the après bars filled with tight-fitting Gore-Tex, and thrilling stories of brutal climbs and daring descents. But if you want to feel the soul of a place you have to get to know its people. And, in my opinion, there's no better place to do that in Chamonix than at La Sapinière. You just so happen to get a front-row seat to Mont Blanc, too.

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To book a stay at La Sapinière in Chamonix, visit the historic family-run hotel's website https://www.chalethotelsapinierechamonix.com/fr

Photos

chamonix
An aerial view of the hotel. | Photo: Hensli Sage

The bar area is quite cozy. | Photo: Fabian Bodet

Patio time. | Photo: Fabian Bodet
 
The bar at La Sapinière. | Photo: SnowBrains

My room. | Photo: SnowBrains

Gary Bigham's slideshow at La Sapinière. | Photo: SnowBrains
 
Mingling with the locals. | Photo: SnowBrains
 
Foie Gras (goose liver) at Atmosphère. | Photo: SnowBrains

Juice selection at La Sapinière. | Photo: SnowBrains
 
Breakfast included. | Photo: SnowBrains

Records. | Photo: SnowBrains

A journal entry from 1850. | Photo: SnowBrains

Ellika combs through her family's historical records. | Photo: SnowBrains

Old French passport. | Photo: SnowBrains

Winter views from the patio. | Photo: La Sapinière
 

Monday, March 24, 2025

The Heroes of the Wildfires That Nearly Erased a New Mexico Ski Town

Ruidoso's landscape bears the scars of the South Fork and Salt Fires, which devastated over 25,000 acres and 1,400 structures in mid-June. Thousands of residents lost their homes, including some of the firefighters who fought the blazes. | Photo: Martin Kuprianowicz

Phoenix (noun): in ancient Egyptian and Classical mythology, a legendary bird symbolizing immortality and resurrection, believed to be reborn from its own ashes after a fiery death every 500 years.

"Nothing left." Those were the two words my father had texted me the night of the Summer Solstice when he confirmed the unthinkable: our home in Ruidoso was gone. Growing up in West Texas, Ruidoso, in south-central New Mexico, was a five-hour drive away, and I went skiing there every weekend with my father from the time I was 2 years old until I moved to Utah for college at 19. Being a ski bum, my father hated West Texas, which had lured him there for work, and we were both in Ruidoso every chance we got. He had owned a property in town for 15 years until it, along with over 1,400 other reported structures, burned down earlier this summer after two wildfires ignited near the town, home to Ski Apache Ski Area. The South Fork Fire was reported on Monday, June 17, at 9:07 a.m. and the Salt Fire was reported later that day at 2:00 p.m. With high winds and plenty of fuel to burn, two massive wildfires had converged on the town from opposite sides; at the time Ruidoso was experiencing its own Perfect Storm moment.

By mid-morning, the sun was blotted out by a thick orange plume rising miles into the sky. At 6:48 that evening, the town's mayor Lynn Crawford issued a mandatory "GO NOW" evacuation order for all of Ruidoso's 8,000 residents. They were told not to go home and collect personal belongings but to get in their vehicles and leave the area immediately. Videos on social media showed flames as tall as ten-story buildings approaching rapidly. "We were at our tattoo shop. We were frantic," Logan Fleharty said, a longtime local and business owner who goes by "Fle" (pronounced, "flea"). "We saw it coming. You could see the fire close—you're watching the fire roar on houses and explode propane tanks." The roads then turned into gridlock. Some residents reported that it took them three hours to drive five miles. Cars were stuck bumper to bumper in a hectic attempt to get out of Dodge while their home was burning.

This photo showing a plume of smoke stretching several miles into the sky was captured by a resident the day the South Fork and Salt fires ignited in Ruidoso. | Photo: Austin Miller

A smoke report rushed into the Smokey Bear Ranger District on Monday morning from the Bonito Fire Department, a few miles north of Ruidoso, indicating smoke rising from the Mescalero Apache Reservation near the base of 11,981-foot Sierra Blanca, the area's tallest peak. The smoke report was relayed to an interagency dispatch center, which began coordinating resources by contacting various crews and agencies for assets, including fire engines, air support, and wildland firefighter teams known as Hotshots. The cavalry was getting organized. Meanwhile, officials at Smokey Bear went up to the Ruidoso Fire Lookout Tower to get eyes on the blaze. By mid-morning, it had been confirmed: a large wildfire had been started in an extremely problematic area and was heading directly for the town of Ruidoso. 

The South Fork Fire started in the northeast section of the Mescalero Apache Reservation in an area known as Upper Canyon, which is a box canyon just a few miles west of town. Upper Canyon is surrounded by steep terrain and has a high concentration of forest fuels like dense swaths of conifer trees and thick shrubbery. It had been previously identified by the Forest Service as a high-risk area where a wildfire could have severe consequences. That, paired with strong winds from the southwest, was causing the fires to burn at an exceptional rate—hundreds of acres an hour. Within 24 hours, the South Fork Fire would have burned over 15,000 acres of pristine forest.

Thousands of homes like this one were destroyed by the South Fork Fire in Ruidoso, which ignited on the Mescalero Apache Reservation on June 17. | Photo: Austin Miller

By mid-afternoon on the first day, three Hotshot crews were dispatched: Sacramento, a New Mexico unit; Tatanka, from South Dakota; and Ruidoso's own Smokey Bear unit. However, the steep terrain and ready-to-burn fuels made it impossible to charge in immediately. The crews had to devise a tactical plan to enter the area safely, especially with spot fires popping up away from the main blaze. As the fire grew, some locals reported falling ash in the form of burnt clothing and charred chunks of magazines landing on their properties as far as 19 miles away. Southern New Mexico's fire season is from March through July, and with the abundance of fuels and dangerous fire conditions in the days leading up to the fire, the South Fork Fire was no freak occurrence—it was only a matter of time. The factors that set the stage—ripe fuels and strong winds—were such that a significant wildfire was almost inevitable. Crews quickly recognized the need to pull back and develop a safer, more coordinated approach.

Air support began dropping slurry, a red fire retardant, but the high winds and heavy concentration of fuels kept the wildfire growing. Helicopters were using Ruidoso's nearby Grindstone Lake to pick up water to drop on the fire. Even with aircraft darting across the smoke-filled sky, the situation continued to devolve. By the next day, the South Fork Fire had consumed 15,000 acres and over 1,000 structures, killing two people. One person was found in a burned vehicle and another was discovered with burn injuries, according to New Mexico State Police spokesperson Wilson Silver who spoke with NBC News. Air support wasn't making much of a dent initially because the fuels were just too receptive. Firefighters had to balance the necessity to combat the blaze with ensuring the safety of their crews. Then even worse news came in over the radio: another massive wildfire had started on the other side of town.

By Monday night, the South Fork Fire had already incinerated thousands of acres and hundreds of structures. | Photo: Austin Miller

Enter Salt Fire. By 2 p.m., Ruidoso had two massive wildfires raging on either side, choking the town from opposite directions. At the time it wasn't clear how either fire started, but the causes weren't the focus yet; regular people just needed to get out of the area so crews could get in and fight. As additional support poured in with more fire engines and Hotshots, those resources were now being divided and sent to both the Salt and South Fork fires. The Salt Fire was situated in a more remote area of Ruidoso, with fewer structures in its path, unlike the South Fork which was already burning through Ruidoso neighborhoods like Cedar Creek and Alpine Village. Soon, nightfall would come, bringing with it diminishing winds and more suitable conditions for Hotshots to get in and battle the advancing fires.

By the evening, the town had been completely cleared out and evacuation centers were established at the Inn of the Mountain Gods Convention Center, the Mescalero Community Center, and Eastern New Mexico University in Roswell. Residents were advised to seek shelter with loved ones outside the affected area or at the designated centers. Yet there were a few stubborn locals who decided to stay in the empty, smoke-riddled town and ride it out. They refused the mandatory evacuation. While the order is legally enforceable, forcible removal of residents is rare. Law enforcement typically focuses on strongly urging compliance, documenting those who choose to stay, and potentially restricting re-entry to evacuated areas.

The author parked his vehicle on Ski Run Road where he captured this image that shows how the South Fork Fire spread and devastated thousands of acres of once pristine forest. | Photo: Martin Kuprianowicz

"No one was forcing us to leave but if we left we wouldn't be let back in because of the evacuation order," Fle said. 

Fle is a 39-year-old tattoo artist and co-owner of a local tattoo shop, Scorpion Tattoos, who grew up in Ruidoso and didn't evacuate when he heard the order. He's about six feet in stature with medium-length, wavy almond brown hair, light green eyes, a friendly face with big nostrils, an outgoing, charismatic demeanor, and lots of tattoos. When I spoke with him in mid-July, almost a month after the fires were contained, we were sitting in front of a mural he painted inside of Downshift Brewing on Sudderth Drive. The mural portrayed a colorful scene of Ruidoso: a short blue and white camper with the door open revealing a disco party inside of it which was placed in a field amongst green ponderosa pines and wild raspberry bushes; there was a mountain biker and a happy hiker, the changing fall colors of aspen trees, a campfire at the edge of a mountain lake, and a skier going downhill—all at the forefront of Sierra Blanca with a bright yellow and red Zia hovering over it, an ancient Pueblo Indian symbol for the sun and the state icon for New Mexico. Fle told me it was a work in progress and that he wanted to add a few more features before he was through with it, like some raver raccoons partying under the disco ball in the camper. 

When the fires first started spreading they quickly wiped out the cell towers, rendering Ruidoso a dead zone. Only Hotshot crews with radios and satellite communications systems could communicate with one another on the first day—except for Fle, who realized he had something that could play a key role in keeping the community connected. "All the cell phone towers went out. Dead silence," Fle said. "When I made it to my farm I realized, wow, I have Starlink. I can give people information. So that was my Base Camp One." With internet access, Fle began sharing updates on his social media accounts, posting videos of the flames, and sharing general updates. He would talk into his iPhone camera about where the front line was and what neighborhoods had gotten scorched, letting his followers know what was going on. He said a lot of people who saw that he was still in town messaged him on social media asking him to check on their homes and feed their animals. He spent the next several days driving from property to property, offering help wherever he could. With buckets of water and shovels stashed in his truck, he put out small spot fires igniting away from the main blaze. At one point, he even saved a coop of 19 chickens from the flames.

This graphic shows the burn zones of the South Fork, Salt, and Blue 2 fires in Ruidoso, New Mexico, which occurred earlier this summer. The Blue 2 Fire started a month prior and was already contained by the time of the South Fork and Salt fires. | Photo: Wildfire.gov

Austin Miller, another local who owns a septic, excavations, and fire-clean-up company in Ruidoso called Summit Operations, took to fighting the fire himself on the first night, using his company's water truck to spray houses to prevent them from catching on fire. He told me that he was up until 4 a.m. on Monday night trying to save people's homes, using his water truck to spray houses where fire was approaching. He was also using the water truck to fill up first responder fire trucks because the water system in Ruidoso had gone down, making it hard for them to extract water from fire hydrants. "There was volume but there was no pressure because the power went out and then the gas went out and it made it to where it was hard to get water, but we have a pump on our truck that we can do suction and pull water of ponds," Miller said. "We pulled water out of the ponds twice because we had sucked one of the tanks dry."

Miller and a few buddies protected multiple houses from burning and they supplied three fire trucks with water that ended up saving 30 to 40 houses or more. Although he didn't have enough water to spray houses that were currently on fire, he could spray the lawns, trees, and homes that hadn't burned yet to prevent the fires from spreading there. He described the situation as chaotic, saying they were "jumping from one house burning to the next," barely able to keep up with the spreading flames. It was a relentless effort: "spray this one, move 50 feet, start spraying here, and just keep trying to save the houses that weren't on fire." Monday night, in particular, stood out as the worst, with embers raining down and igniting spot fires behind them as they fought the flames in front. "It was total chaos—like Armageddon," Miller recounted.

The forest surrounding Ski Run Road was decimated by the South Fork Fire. | Photo: Martin Kuprianowicz

Crews and locals alike were working tirelessly to save their hometown. Exhaustion set in. Sleep-deprivation. Everyone was worked; hungry, sweaty, thirsty. Despite their valiant efforts, several of the Hotshots on Smokey Bear who live in Ruidoso would still end up losing their houses to the South Fork Fire. But everyone kept charging on. When Fle was sending updates from business owner Jasper Riddle's property, another Ruidoso local and business owner whose home is much closer than Fle's farm outside of town and who also had a Starlink system, he noticed three cases of sparkling water in his garage. That's when Fle found another way to make himself useful. After being badged as a First Responder by Downshift Brewing—a local brewery converted into an operations center providing free coffee and meals for first responders—he took the cases of water and drove to the crews to deliver refreshments. Later that week, Fle was asked by a friend who owned a car wash in Ruidoso to close the bay doors at his facility, and he noticed that there was a functional icemaker. Then the Hotshots started getting cold drinks. To boost morale, Fle placed an old mannequin in his truck bed named "Ken" that would accompany him on his runs. "Promote positivity. Give them a crisp high-five. A hug if they need it. Make a silly joke. Anything to get us out of our tension—tease the tension. That became so important because these guys were struggling," Fle said. He was working 17-18 hour days for a month straight, even after the fires were contained, dropping off supplies, meeting with residents, sorting through the rubble, and helping clean up damaged homes, which he was still doing at the time we sat down for our chat. "We're exhausted but we have to continue. It's my home," Fle said.

Downshift Brewing is a new brewery in the middle of Ruidoso that has a three-tiered balcony on its back that's surrounded by towering ponderosa pine trees and overlooks the Ruidoso River. It's constructed of wood giving it the appearance of a large log cabin. Eddie Gutierrez, the owner, opened its doors in August of 2021. Gutierrez is a tallish man with a dark goatee and long, jet-black hair that touches his shoulders. During the fires, Gutierrez stayed behind, keeping the doors to the brewery open to cook meals for first responders and residents alike. Gutierrez and his staff were whipping up to 600 meals a day, providing food to anyone who walked in. Fle, who had recently been working on the mural on the inside of the brewery, frequented Downshift, popping by several times a day. During the fires, he ran food and drinks from the brewery to the front line while Gutierrez and his crew worked hard on cooking.

"The whole community was affected by this fire. Everyone was evacuated. I turned my attention to trying to support the systems that were here as best I could. For us, that meant feeding people," Gutierrez told me.

Downshift Brewing served as a hub for first responders to come get coffee, food, and use Wi-Fi during the Ruidoso fires. | Photo: Martin Kuprianowicz

Those working in the kitchen that first week at Downshift were all volunteers—no one was getting paid, and they were working long days, often 12 hours or more at a time. "None of us were perfect, but we did the best we could," Gutierrez said. His brewery also had electricity and more importantly, Wi-Fi, at a time when all of the electricity in town was shut off. Gutierrez utilized this to share updates on the brewery's social media accounts of what he saw and how the community was responding—a move his wife convinced him to take. A lot of misinformation was circling at the time, according to Gutierrez. People were gossiping about how all of mid-town had been wiped out, that Albertson's was gone, or that there wasn't even a Ruidoso left, so he used his brewery's platform to share accurate information. It was a warm, sunny morning in mid-July when I met with Gutierrez at the brewery, and the National Weather Service had issued a flood warning for later that afternoon. Seemingly everyone I spoke to that morning in Ruidoso was planning their day around the flood warning, nonchalantly, almost with a mild sense of humor or lightness attached to it, cracking small jokes about having to escape the incoming floods. Yet no one was mistaken; what was happening later that day would be purely devastating.

After the wildfires were contained, the monsoon came, bringing with it flash floods that were almost as devastating as the fires themselves. This Ruidoso neighborhood was devasted by the flooding. | Photo: Austin Miller

By the first weekend after the fires started, they had been mostly contained. Structures were no longer burning down thanks to diligent work from Hotshots, a break in the winds, and some much-needed rainfall that arrived mid-week. The town was closed to the general public until Sunday, June 23, when Mayor Crawford lifted the evacuation order, first allowing full-time residents to come back in before permitting all of the general public, including visitors, the following week. Early in the afternoon of June 27, after both the South Fork and Salt fires had been 99% contained, Fle had come upon a team of flood specialists from a Burned Area Emergency Response team sent by the Forest Service walking out of Cedar Creek, which is north of Upper Canyon where the South Fork Fire initially started. Cedar Creek sustained some of the most ferocious devastation from the blaze with thousands of acres of old-growth forest, hundreds of houses, dozens of hiking and mountain bike trails, and an array of National Forest infrastructure completely wiped from the face of the earth. Fle told me that he tried to give the flood specialists some snacks and cold drinks but they wouldn't accept them. They looked solemn. After a brief conversation, they expressed relief that the fires were over but said that what they had witnessed in Cedar Creek and Upper Canyon was so disturbing it had ruined their appetite. They knew what would happen once the rains came.

Monsoon season in the Southwest typically occurs from July to September. It's a seasonal weather pattern that brings with it thunderstorms and elevated rainfall, particularly affecting areas such as Arizona and New Mexico, but also extending to parts of western Texas, southern Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and occasionally southern California. Despite the containment of the fires, the aftermath was far from over. The monsoon rains caused flooding, exacerbating the situation, as the soil burned by the fires had become weak and unable to absorb moisture. That, combined with Ruidoso's steep terrain that undulates through and around the town, was another invitation to chaos. The first big rain storms that rolled in brought with them floodwaters that had reportedly reached as high as 12 feet in some areas, causing further destruction and displacing even more residents. Highway 70, a major route, constantly flooded, and there were over 100 swiftwater rescues by mid-July. One video that emerged from Ruidoso showed an 18-wheeler truck overturned by a flash flood on Highway 70 with its driver still inside.

Another one of Fle's friends, who owns a bookstore in a lowlands area of Ruidoso, was caught in a torrent of fast-moving water as it broke in through the doors of her bookstore. She was pinned against a wall and couldn't move, suffering minor injuries. Fle continued documenting the devastation despite the emotional toll it took on him, often breaking down in his truck after witnessing the destruction of his hometown. At one point, he called his business partner, James Flores, in tears. Flores urged him to keep filming for the world to see. Fle then stepped back out of his truck, donned his muck boots, and trudged through the muddy, contaminated water to capture more footage of the aftermath.

Flash floods with water levels reaching 12 feet were reported in some low-lying parts of Ruidoso after the fires were contained and the rains came. | Photo: Austin Miller

"It's something that nobody is prepared for," Austin Miller said, who was working on clean-up efforts at the time we spoke on the phone at the end of July. "I've seen houses get torn apart because of so much water. Cars, full garbage dumpsters floating down in a river," he said.  The fires destroyed over 1,000 homes and the floods added to the toll, with over 200 more homes damaged by late July. The community rallied to clean up and rebuild, but the waiting game with federal aid was frustrating.

"I don't know if we'll be here six months from now," Gutierrez said. "All of Ruidoso is an industry driven by tourism. Even if anybody isn't directly employed by tourism, they are somehow associated with it."

Downshift Brewing, a new business and popular social hub with weekly live music before the fires, was now struggling to make ends meet. June and July are the biggest months for business in Ruidoso, holding over most everyone until Labor Day. Profits from Labor Day Weekend then hold businesses over until Christmas, when ski season kicks off. Gutierrez urged his workers to claim unemployment, but Disaster Unemployment Assistance hadn't kicked in. "Everybody's going through this crisis even if your house didn't burn or flood," Gutierrez said. "We're trying to avoid financial instability as best we can." Like the majority of Ruidoso's business owners, Gutierrez was literally trying to stay above water.

Jasper Riddle is another local who's been a part of Ruidoso's business community for over 30 years and is the owner of Noisy Water Winery and a few other businesses in town. When I spoke with Riddle on the phone it was exactly one month after the fires started and he was "knee-deep" in insurance claims for his enterprises that were impacted. There was another flash flood risk issued for Ruidoso that day.

"We need a lot of damn help," Riddle said. "It's not bottles of water and thoughts and prayers; it's people showing up to help rebuild. It's money. It's infrastructure. It's tourism."

Collin Hood, a long-time friend and business partner of Riddle, lost his ski shop and cannabis dispensary while half of his home burned down, all within four hours of one another. Swiss Chalet, a long-time-standing hotel in between mid-town Ruidoso and Ski Run Road leading to the ski area, was caught in the direct line of the South Fork Fire and was burned to the ground. Nothing from the iconic hotel survived. "The businesses are getting kicked in the face right now," Riddle said. At the time I spoke with Riddle, the only financial aid available for the Ruidoso economy was disaster relief loans from the Small Business Administration. He talked about how COVID was rough for Ruidoso and how they had just barely started to pull back out of the weeds from it this year. But that was a global crisis—this time it was only the people of Ruidoso who were suffering.

Despite the devastation, the people fight on. Fle organized a fundraiser, raising over $150,000 for fire victims through Venmo, silent auctions, and partnerships with other tattoo shops. "Absolutely all of the money will be going toward the Ruidoso community," Fle said. "We want to see how much we can raise for those who lost their homes." Fle’s efforts extended beyond financial support; he also organized a silent auction featuring paintings donated by local artists, raising $19,000 from the event alone. Additionally, eight other tattoo shops in El Paso and New Mexico partnered with Fle, contributing to the total funds raised. "Now people have realized what stronghold our outreach is, creating positivity, giving back, giving thanks to the people," he said with tears in his eyes as he talked about the community's response. "You got to look for the good things. And be a good neighbor."

The author’s father’s home (pictured) was burned to the ground by the South Fork Fire, along with the rest of Ruidoso’s Alpine Village neighborhood. | Photo: Martin Kuprianowicz

The South Fork and Salt Fires together burned a staggering 25,508 acres and destroyed over 1,400 structures. According to Miller, the damages brought by the fires and floods will end up costing over $1 billion. The official cause of the South Fork Fire was a lightning strike, according to a report shared by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Lightning is a common natural cause of wildfires, particularly in areas like New Mexico, where dry conditions and thunderstorms frequently coincide. According to the National Interagency Fire Center, lightning accounts for about 60% of all wildfires in the United States, with New Mexico being particularly susceptible due to its climate and topography. The state experiences thousands of lightning strikes annually. While the South Fork Fire was a natural disaster, the Salt Fire was determined to be human-caused.

FBI agents have identified a man and a woman as suspects in the Salt Fire, as well as several other fires on the Mescalero Apache Reservation. According to court documents, the suspects were linked to the fires through a vehicle seen fleeing at least five other fire scenes and shoe prints left at the Salt Fire site. A federal search warrant application, filed by an FBI agent in New Mexico on July 11, sought to obtain a pair of Vans shoes belonging to the female suspect. The warrant was executed on July 15. Although the El Paso Times has chosen not to disclose the names of the suspects, as they have not been formally charged, the warrant details that between May 3 and June 18, there were 16 wildfires in the Mescalero Apache Reservation believed to be human-caused. The man and woman named in the warrant have been linked to at least six of these fires. The investigation into the Salt Fire and other suspicious fires in the area continues as authorities work to gather more evidence and potentially bring charges against the suspects.

To boost morale, Fle placed an old mannequin named "Ken" in the bed of his truck to keep him company during his runs. | Photo: Martin Kuprianowicz

The road ahead for Ruidoso is long and fraught with challenges. The response from government agencies has been a mix of immediate action and bureaucratic delays. While the initial firefighting efforts were swift and coordinated, the distribution of financial aid and resources has been slower. The Burned Area Emergency Response team has been assessing the damage and planning for flood prevention, but the community is still waiting for substantial federal aid. With damages estimated to be over $1 billion, Jasper Riddle has been advocating for more proactive government intervention. "That's a lot of damn money you need to get moving really really rapidly in order to get people to start to feel normal again." The community's determination is also evident, but the support of tourists and the broader public will be crucial in the town's recovery since tourism is the town's lifeline. It needs people to come back and support its businesses. Riddle added that it's not only about the immediate financial support but also about rebuilding their reputation as a destination. "We need to show the world that Ruidoso is still here and still beautiful," he said. However, both Gutierrez and Riddle recognize the delicate balance between encouraging tourism and ensuring responsible visitation. "People need to come back in responsibly and understand their surroundings and be aware," Riddle said."That's the negative externality associated with wanting to live so close to nature."

Riddle emphasized that visible progress—for people to actually see work getting done to rebuild Ruidoso—is crucial for restoring a sense of normalcy in the community. Riddle says people are already bouncing back in more beautiful ways than he could ever imagine. He recounted how one local, whose home was destroyed by the fire, had already started planting trees on his former property. "He's like, 'Well, I can't build a house yet, but I can get some trees in the ground.'" The people of Ruidoso are trying to get back on the mend. A strong winter tourism season will likely aid in the economic recovery, which is something Riddle—like all Ruidoso business owners—is desperately hoping for, but none of them are thinking that far ahead yet. They are trying to make ends meet right now; to keep their staff's payroll flowing and their livelihoods secure. Amidst the loss from the fires and floods, Riddle does see some signs of hope, like how the recent rains have caused green grass to sprout on the site where Swiss Chalet once stood. "If it wasn't for the fires, this would be one of the most beautiful summer seasons I've seen." This regurgitation of life is an indication that they, too, as a community can grow back.

An elk grazes outside of Downshift Brewery in mid-town Ruidoso. | Photo: Martin Kuprianowicz

One positive aspect of such a destructive fire, Riddle thinks, is that much of the damage occurred near existing infrastructure. This makes the recovery efforts much easier than if a wildfire of similar size occurred in a remote location, far from roadways. The fire, perhaps, could allow a clean slate for Ruidoso. "It gives you the opportunity to come back in and build better. To build better master-planned areas. It's just a matter of having the resources to do so." Riddle hopes that each day brings a bit of improvement and that they make small progress every day. "I hope in six months we look back and say, 'Oh my God, it doesn't even look like something happened.'"

Looking ahead, the path to recovery is clear but challenging. The community needs continued support from government agencies, financial aid, and, most importantly, the return of tourists. The rebuilding efforts will take time, but the personal stories of resilience from the people of this ski community crystalize and make known the spirit of Ruidoso, New Mexico—a place where tall, powdery peaks collide with big, open ranches with livestock surrounded by herds of wild horses and elk; where cowboys and skiers mingle, share stories, have cookouts, build friendships, and start families. Where ancient indigenous culture dances with proud Southwest tradition. The courageous Hotshots who worked day and night to put out the fires, the pilots dropping slurry left and right, Logan Fleharty's efforts to use his Starlink system for communication, Austin Miller's late-night firefighting with his water truck, Eddie Gutierrez's kitchen staff providing thousands of meals a week and his PSAs to clear up misinformation, and Jasper Riddle's strong voice in the community to get tourism back up and running—these are but some of the countless stories of the brave souls who have given their time and energy and health to help their neighbors in any way they know how. The light shone from these vicious fires has illuminated the truth of a town that refuses to give up. "It's moments like these that show the true strength of our community," Fle said. "We are down but we are not out."

Nobody in Ruidoso is the same as they were the day before the fires. They probably won't be for a long time, either. Yet hope still remains, like a seed sprouting in the fire-scorched soil, reaching for the sun despite the odds. "It's still a beautiful place. I still love this place and I still believe in it. You could come to Ruidoso today and have a great experience. We are going to continue to focus on healing this place in any capacity that we can. If we're going to make it, we're going to make it because the whole place is stronger. And if we fail—we're going to fail trying," Gutierrez told me, teary-eyed, as we were wrapping up our chat at the brewery. It was approaching mid-day and the sun was still shining but clouds were starting to form in the distance; tall, white, puffy, ethereal castles amidst a sea of azure sky. They floated nearer, silently, ever so gently yet ominously toward this little mountain town of heroes. Their life-giving water would soon turn the ashes left behind from the fires into deadly, earth-devouring waves. Like Ruidoso, it will be from these same ashes that a phoenix rises.

In the wake of the fires, Fle and his mannequin companion, Ken, became symbols of hope and support for first responders. Photo: Martin Kuprianowicz

Ruidoso Wildfire Relief Fundraisers